russian danny phantom fan

fightbeast:

Suddenly Danny Phantom

drawmaevedraw:

So I got a lot of messages after my first post asking me to explain layers, so I have put together a cheat sheet of the different layer types.  The quickest way to become awesome with layers is to know exactly what each one does. Once again, I’m no expert, and these are just my personal definitions, so please try these out for yourself! LONG POST BELOWWW

THE LAYERS CHEAT SHEET PART ONE:

1. NORMAL:  Aw yeah you know all about this layer its just your average layer 
2  DISSOLVE: This mode “dissolves” some pixels, allowing the lower layer to show through. very pixel-y.  Reducing opacity makes it dissolve more.
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3. DARKEN: Now the difference between darken and multiply are a little confusing, so I will explain them together. MULTIPLY is more of a glaze, while DARKEN favors the darks on all layers.  So if you have a darken layer on, it tend to reduce/remove the lighter tones on the layer if there are darker tones below it, while darkening the darks.  
4.  MULTIPLY: A glaze that darkens the color of the layer below. It is great for shading.  Reduces whites.
5.  COLOR BURN:  “Burns” the lower layer favoring a more saturated look.  Marks made over white are not preserved.  
6.  LINEAR BURN:  “Burns” the lower layer, with a little less saturation than color Burn.  Also will preserve colors over white. 
7.  DARKER COLOR: I tend to avoid this puppy cause it does not darken on the RGB channel. (feel free to try him though!)
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8. LIGHTEN:  Lightens the colors below. Favors lighter colors on lower layers.
9. SCREEN:  Lightens the colors below, but much closer to the “glaze” analogy as above.  Reduces blacks. 
10. COLOR DODGE: Often used for magic-y effects, color dodge bumps up saturation and is very bright.
11.  LINEAR DODGE: Much like color dodge, but less saturation. 
12. LIGHTER COLOR:  Once again, this is an outside RGB channel layer, so I don’t really use this. 

As you probably have noticed, the second two groups are opposites, so if you have a good handle on one, you probably know exactly what the second group does! I will do the remaining groups next week as they do not follow this pattern.  

Thanks!
drawmaevedraw.tumblr.com 

EDIT: Part two here: Photoshop Layers Part Two!!

drawmaevedraw:

THE LAYERS CHEAT SHEET PART TWO
(PART ONE HERE)

Once again, I’m no expert- there are things about these layers I probably haven’t covered, so please try them out for yourself!

Layers 1-7 help your contrast. They are usually a pair of the former two groups I went over in my last post.

1. OVERLAY:  Helps your contrast by boosting your lights and darks, while the more mid tone pixels aren’t affected as much. It does this based on the layers beneath it.  “Screens” the lights, “multiplies” the darks. 
2. SOFT LIGHT:  Similar to overlay, but a “softer” effect. You can think of soft light as more transparent.
3. HARD LIGHT: You can look at hard light as an intense version of overlay, with much brighter colors and a much less transparent look.
4. VIVID LIGHT:  This is the heavy metal version of overlay- think of it similar to color dodge and color burn.  Very intense colors, good for finding interesting lighting and color combos.
5. LINEAR LIGHT:  Crazy amounts of contrast and color is added here, even more than vivid light.  so heavy metal 
6. PIN LIGHT:  This one is interesting because besides it also being an intense contrast layer, it can add random noise to the active layer.  Apparently this is a combo of the lighten blend mode on the light pixels and darken on the dark pixels, but the noise effect is what makes it really interesting imo.
7. HARD MIX:  You will turn this mode on and be like “no” but it is actually adjusting its fill will reveal another overlay-ish type layer.  It throws the colors on the active layer towards a more primary color such as blue, or magenta. 
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8. DIFFERENCE: This will invert your colors, taking into account the layers below. If colors are very close, they will be black.
9. EXCLUSION: This also inverts your colors, taking into account the layers below. If colors are very close, they are grey. Exclusion and difference are layers that would be good for graphic pieces, I haven’t really gotten used to incorporating them in my painting workflow.
10. SUBTRACT: Similar to the above layers, but more intense. You will notice that the darker you make your active layer with Difference, exclusion, and subtract, the lighter and more transparent looking the result will be.
11. DIVIDE:  Divide, however, usually results in crazy highlights that are pretty opaque unless the layer is fairly light, and then it will begin to go transparent. 
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12. HUE:  Makes the lower layer take on the hue of the active layer.
13. SATURATION:  The lower layers take on the saturation of the active layer.
14. COLOR:  The lower layers take on the color of the active layer.
15. LUMINOSITY:  The lower layers take on the luminosity, or brightness, of the active layer.


Once again, I’m no expert, but I hope this helps. Thanks guys!
http://drawmaevedraw.tumblr.com/

drawmaevedraw:

Hey guys! Here’s a post that I hope some will find helpful, things I have picked up along the way that I wish I had known from the start!  These are not set in stone, and only just suggestions, I’m no expert okay guys

THINGS I WISH I HAD KNOWN ABOUT PHOTOSHOP:

1.  FLOW.  Flow was put in place primarily for the airbrush folks.  Now its relevance has changed slightly.  With textured brushes, try reducing the flow to “expose” texture.
2.  Ctrl+U : HUE/SATURATION/LIGHTNESS.  For people who are indecisive about color, use this to slide around the color quickly instead of repainting or replacing the color.
3.  CLIPPING/ LAYER MASKS.  Seriously, take five minutes to do this.  A good online resource is ctrlpaint.  This will be instrumental in creating hard edges, something beginner digital artists really struggle with.  Also non-destructive, you will save SO much time. 
4.  With that said, ctrl+alt+g makes the current layer you are on a clipping mask.  You can layer mask a group. 
5.  MULTIPLY and the surrounding layer types in its little section is like a dark glaze.  Good for shadows.
6.  OVERLAY and the surrounding layer types in its little section is like a lightening glaze.  Good for lighting. LIGHTEN and the dudes around him are also good for lighting, esp. screen. 
7.  MAKE YOUR GOSH DARN BACKGROUND IN THE INTERFACE LIGHTER.  Your contrast will thank you.  Right click on the background of the interface and choose the one you like the best.  I know dark grey looks sexy, I know. 
8.  TRANSFORM TOOLS ARE THE BEST (but paint over them).  If you have a tile, pattern, whatever- Image>transform> choose your weapon.  Have a tiled floor? Don’t you dare paint all those tiles. Scales?  Paint them flat in a square, then use the warp tool to push them around the form.  Then make your painterly adjustments.
9.  PAINTING SHORTCUTS:  Numbers affect the opacity. Shift+ Number affects the flow. Holding down alt gives you the eyedropper. Brackets [] change size of brush, these dudes <> cycle between your brushes.
10.  HISTOGRAM. If you have a fairly even histogram, this means your distribution of lights mids and darks is even.  If it is skewed, and you don’t mean it to be, adjust accordingly. 

Just be casual about it and love your art I love you all

Follow me for more tutorials and art here:
drawmaevedraw.tumblr.com 

curdledmilkk:

here’s some bips and dips

I’m going to try not to be lazy, I want to post more art in 2016, I didn’t hardly do anything in 2015

thatniallers:

keep it together, kid

wanologic:

Umm… I’m back